- TEKTRO BRAKE SYSTEMS - Product, Disc, Brake, Lever, Disc Pads, Brake Pads, Accessories, MTB Road, Cyclocross, TT / Triathlon, Recreation, BMX, E-Bike.
- TEKTRO BRAKE SYSTEMS - Guide, Disc, Brake, Lever, Disc Pads, Brake Pads, Accessories, MTB Road, Cyclocross, TT / Triathlon, Recreation, BMX, E-Bike.
Mar 10, 2016.
If your car pulls to one side, or you smell burning, one or more of your brakes could be binding or seized. Fear not! Read on and we'll help you diagnose and fix it…
What are the symptoms of a seized brake caliper?
There are several reasons why brakes drag or bind, but it is typically because something in the system has seized, or become stuck. The piston can stick within the caliper. Brakes pads can get skewed and seize. On single-piston calipers, sometimes the slide pins seize. Finally, if a car is allowed to sit in a damp environment, the pads can actually become stuck to the disc.
If a brake becomes seized when the vehicle is unused, the symptoms are fairly obvious – when you try to drive it feels like the brakes are on! Sometimes it is so bad the car won't move at all.
If it is the caliper slide pins that have seized, the car may appear to drive normally, but the pads will only be pushed onto the disc from the piston side. This will give reduced braking ability on one wheel, and wear the pad on the piston side much faster. In cases like these, the car may pull to the opposite side when the brakes are applied.
If the piston is stuck within the caliper, or the pad is stuck, the car can feel down on power (as if the parking brake is on). You may also notice the car pulling to one side with the steering wheel pointed straight, when cruising and not applying the brake.
As you drive, the seized brake may also get hot – very hot. You'll quickly smell the brakes overheating (it's a distinctive acrid smell) and may even see smoke coming off them. If this occurs, stop! Driving with a badly binding brake can generate enough heat to start a fire, but even if it doesn't you can damage the discs and any component connected to the wheel hub.
In many cases, the brakes binding on one wheel will happen so gradually that you don't notice the difference. It may only become apparent in your state's yearly safety inspection when they test the brakes for proper function, and straight stopping.
Discover how to change the front brake pads and rear brake pads on your vehicle!
What causes brakes to seize?
The main cause of brakes seizing is inactivity, coupled with corrosion. If a vehicle is left sitting for months it's not uncommon for the brakes to seize, especially if it is parked outside. Brake discs can rust causing the pads to become stuck to them, or a caliper piston, or slider pin can get stuck for similar reasons. Brakes are subjected to a huge range of temperatures, are permanently exposed to the elements, and are rarely serviced or inspected between pad changes. As a result, corrosion can build up in key areas and cause failure.
In the case of the rear brakes binding, it may not be the caliper/cylinder. Sometimes the handbrake cable or mechanism can just hang up, causing the brakes to remain on. To prevent a seized handbrake cable or mechanism, both should be lubricated periodically.
Also, remember to flush the fluid in your entire brake system every other year. Most brake fluids absorb water over time, and moisture can cause corrosion from within the caliper itself.
Unsticking a Seized Brake Caliper
If the cause of your brake issue is the parking brake cable/mechanism, a skewed pad, or the pads sticking to the disc, the remedy is fairly simple. Lubricating the parking brake system should fix that issue, and removing the pads and applying a small amount of grease to the edge should fix skewed pads. Once stuck pads have been freed from a disc, the solution is resurfacing the disc and replacing the pads.
For seized caliper pistons, or slide pins, a special tool is available to apply force and retract the pad. Often a simple C-clamp can be used. To remove a caliper piston that has become seized, the hydraulic pressure of the brake system itself can be used. Remove the caliper from the disc, and pump the brake pedal to move the piston past the corroded portion. Now you should be able to disassemble and rebuild it.
Brake caliper rebuild vs replace
Even if you free a stuck brake, there is a high likelihood of it seizing again if it was caused by the caliper piston, or slide pins. The corrosion that caused the unit to get stuck is still there, and it is only a matter of time before it sticks again. Replacing the bad caliper is always an option, but often it can be rebuilt for less money.
A rebuild is something a competent DIYer can do at home, and involves disassembly and cleaning, then replacing rubber parts and sometimes the piston itself. As long as the internal corrosion isn't too bad, a rebuild is worth considering. A brake hone to clean the internal bore of the caliper is the only special tool you may need.
Even if you free a stuck brake, there is a high likelihood of it seizing again if it was caused by the caliper piston, or slide pins. The corrosion that caused the unit to get stuck is still there, and it is only a matter of time before it sticks again. Replacing the bad caliper is always an option, but often it can be rebuilt for less money.
A rebuild is something a competent DIYer can do at home, and involves disassembly and cleaning, then replacing rubber parts and sometimes the piston itself. As long as the internal corrosion isn't too bad, a rebuild is worth considering. A brake hone to clean the internal bore of the caliper is the only special tool you may need.
You may want to buy a good used caliper and rebuild it with new seals instead, if yours is badly corroded. But remember, a junkyard caliper could even be worse than the one you're replacing!
If your wallet allows, the simplest, and wisest option is always a brand new caliper! Ultimately it comes down to budget.
This article will discuss dual pivot calipers arm adjustment from brake attachment to the frame, pad adjustment to the rim, pad clearance, and pad centering.
1Preliminary Info
- Vise inserts:
The dual pivot caliper rim brakes are used on many modern road bicycles. It is a combination of a 'center-pull' and a 'side pull' brake. One caliper arm has its pivot off of wheel center, the other arm pivot directly over the wheel center.
2Install Caliper
The calipers secure to the frame or fork with a threaded stud and nut. Hold the brake centered to the rim, and secure the nut to manufacturer's specifications, typically 6–7 Nm. Hold the calipers close to center on the rim, as this will assist pad setting later.
3Install Cable
It is useful to use the brake cable to hold the pads close to the rim. This makes adjustment easier.
Feed the cable through the barrel adjuster, and through the pinch mechanism. Back the barrel adjuster out two or three turns to allow for later adjustments. Make sure the quick-release is in the closed position. Squeeze the pads to the rim and secure the pinch bolt to manufacturer's specifications, typically 5 Nm.
4Adjust Pads to Rim
For dual pivot brakes, each arm pivot location is different and pads move in different arcs as they approach the rim. The left side arm (as seen from in front of the brake) acts as a side pull. This pad swings downward as it travels toward the rim. As this pad wears thinner, it will travel downward even more. The right side acts as a center pull. The right pad will travel upward as it approaches the rim.
Because of these different pad arcs, set the right pad lower on the rim braking surface, and the left pad high on the braking surface.
Most dual pivot brakes use a pad system with convex and concave surfaces. This system permits adjustment for how the pad face strikes the rim.
Adjust pads for flat face of pad strikes flat face of rim surface. Adjust for front and back edge of pad for even, and the pad is not tilted.
The brake may need to be adjusted for 'toe.' Toe is an adjustment the can reduce brake squeal. The simplest test first is to see if the brake squeal when used. If there is not squeal, toe is not required.
Squeal is a flexing back and forth of the brake caliper on the rim surface, creating a resonance. This effect can be reduced if the front edge of the pad is angled to contact first, leaving a slight gap at the trailing edge.
Another method is to create shim at the back edge of the pad using a rubber band. This technique only works if the pads use the convex-concave spacer system. Squeeze the lever gently and loosen the pad screw. The pad will self align to the rim from the pressure. Secure the pad, remove the rubber band and check for toe.
NOTE: It is generally not recommend that dual pivot brake arms be bent for 'toe.' Install the convex-concave pads that permit toe adjustments. Otherwise, file the pad so there is a slight gap at the back.
5Set Pad Clearance
Squeeze lever with force to settle in cable and housing and to test security of cable pinch bolt. Use barrel adjuster to adjust pad clearance by feel at the lever.
A brake that is set too tightly make pad centering difficult and will likely rub the rim during a ride. Cook time for mac and cheese in 700 watt microwave. In this case bring the barrel adjuster down into the brake, creating more cable slack to move the pads away from the rim.
On a brake that is too loose, it will nearly contact the handlebar, resulting in poor stopping power. Turn the barrel adjuster counterclockwise, drawing out slack and bringing the pads closer to the rim.
Normally, front and rear brakes are set to feel the same.
6Centering
View pad centering to rim. Dual pivot brakes commonly have a centering screw on one arm. Turning the screw clockwise will draw both pads to the side of brake with the screw. Loosening the screw will move both brakes toward the side opposite the screw.
Some dual pivot models lack a centering screw option. In these cases, move both the brake mounting nut and brake body together. Use brake centering wrench if there is a centering flat on the brake.
7Cut Cable & Cap
Finish by trimming the cable and installing an end cap.
8Caliper Arm Pivot Adjustment
If there is excessive play in the caliper arms, adjust at the brake pivot.
Because each arm has a separate pivot, each arm pivot is adjusted separately. Neither arm should have play, or a back and forth knocking. Additionally, neither arm should bind as it moves. The caliper arm bridge behind each arm is threaded for each arm pivot bolt. Behind each pivot bolt is a locknut. Dual pivot use a spring to push open the side-pull type arm. A setscrew in the side-pull type arm pushes on the center-pull arm to open it.
- To adjust the center pivot of the right arm, begin by removing the brake from the bike.
- Loosen set screw located under bridge. Not all brands and models use a setscrew on this bridge. Campagnolo® uses a setscrew in the locknut behind the brace.
- Release spring tension by un-hooking the spring from the right caliper arm (center-pull type arm). Use care not to damage plastic spring-guide.
- Loosen locknut at base of mounting bolt. It is not necessary to remove locknut. Shimano® typically uses a 12-point 13mm nut. Other brands vary.
- Mount a L-shaped hex wrench vertically in a vise. This will act to hold the pivot bolt and free up your hands.
- Pivot center pull side inward to expose center bolt. Place brake down on hex wrench. Center bridge is threaded, and can also act as its own lever. Turn brace clockwise slightly (10-15 degrees) to tightened adjustment. Hold brace and fully secure locknut (about 70 inch-pound torque). Test center-pivoting arm for knocking and play. Test arm for adequate free movement. If the arm binds, loosen locknut and loosen bridge slightly. Re-secure locknut and test again. Repeat as needed.
- Move caliper arm to full open position and re-attach return spring. Use care not to damage plastic spring-guide.
- Mount brake to frame, or use soft jaws in vise to hold mounting bolt.
- Use hex wrench to hold right-arm adjusting bolt, and loosen locknut on backside of arm. Tighten adjusting bolt slightly. Hold bolt and secure locknut fully. Test for play in arm, and squeeze arm to rim and test for adequate free movement.
Mount caliper to bike and adjust pads as described above.
Tektro Caliper Brake Adjustment
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